Above is my portfolio painting named “Fruit Stripe.”

Illustrating traditionally has become rare. However, in the interest of sharing my outdated technique, I am going to list some materials. I am not sure how long art supply stores will continue to carry them!

COLOR LIST FOR DR. PH MARTIN DYES (my favorite colors)


 Scarlet – 5A, Violet – 10A, Sepia – 28B, Daffodil Yellow – 15B, Mahogany – 27B, Chartreuse – 34C, True Blue 9A


Orange – 5, Nile Green – 20, Cadmium Orange – 32, Light Gray – 11,  Ultramarine – 18, Chrome Yellow – 3, Light Brown – 6


050 Vandyke Brown, 029 Light Red, 059 Yellow Ochre, 057 Winsor Violet, 056 Winsor Red, 014 Chrome Orange, 058 Winsor Yellow, 022 Hooker’s Green, Light, 003 Antwerp Blue, 025 Indigo, 008 Burnt Sienna


Two water containers

Plastic white palettes

Brushes – Sable, with a pointy tip. Several sizes recommended for larger areas.

Drafting Tape

Box of facial tissue

Blow Dryer

Drafting Board (Plywood) – 16 x 20 is a good size

Stapler or staple gun

2” gummed, brown paper tape



Frisket Film – Graphix Brand – high tack (in sheets or a roll)

Old brush or toothpicks for liquid frisket. I did buy some excellent tools by Meeden years ago (the blue ones below). I don’t see them selling them today.

An excellent set of tweezers to help lift the areas of frisket off. I’m always looking for a good surgical one.

A burnisher is important to make sure the frisket is securely holding.

Here are some of my tools.

Graphite Paper – Saral Brand

Tracing paper – Canson recommended


Matt knife and blades

Dr. PH Martin’s Pen White (for little hi-lights)

Crow Quill

Badger Air Opaque Assortment

Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder

Liquitex Matte Medium (to reduce shine from colored pencils or Badger Air Opaque)

Spray mount

Metal ruler

Colored Pencils – Prismacolor

Electric Sharpener

Kneaded eraser

Ad Marker Blender is great because it can lift colored pencil



Rubber Cement Thinner

Crow Quill

Markers, water-based – Tombow (These markers have some beautiful colors – I draw on my palette and use the color that way).
Markers, solvent-based – Ad Markers

Markers, alcohol-based – Prismacolor

Marker Paper –  Beinfang “graphics” 360 – 100% rag layout pad for markers

2 sided adhesive I use: Mactec Adhesive Film from Montroy Supply

Illustration Board or Firm 2-ply surface to mount Beinfang paper on. (Often a flexible surface is required for scanning, so board is not an option)

This is my photo reference for my Fruit Strip painting. I taped two photos together.

The paintings below were stock images that were digitally selected from the much wider portfolio painting.

I have mentioned that sometimes it becomes more efficient to start over. Watercolor paper occasionally has annoying “quirks.” On more complicated paintings, I would do a test trip before starting my painting to be sure the paper wasn’t defective. On defective paper, the frisket leaks everywhere or the colors are spotting. This could be because the “sizing” that was used in making the paper was incorrect. Sometimes only a little rubbing with a Kleenex can cause a

On the example below, I struggled to put down what is there. That abandoned painting below probably represented about ten hours. However, when I started over on a paper without problems, everything worked out much fresher and quicker. I thought it would be helpful to share the process of how I work with this partial painting. I darkened the line drawing to show it (digitally). Normally, my line drawing is almost invisible.

I have actually done work for many candy companies, and may have a post on all of those jobs later on. The candy used for this painting was

My portfolio painting named “Candy Medley.”
I abandoned this painting because the paper had issues and wasn’t working well.
My photo reference for “Candy Medley.

About Judy

I'm an illustrator by profession. At this juncture in my life, I am pursuing my dream of writing and composing music. Every day of my life is precious!
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