Above is my portfolio painting named “Fruit Stripe.”
Illustrating traditionally has become rare. However, in the interest of sharing my outdated technique, I am going to list some materials. I am not sure how long art supply stores will continue to carry them!
COLOR LIST FOR DR. PH MARTIN DYES (my favorite colors)
RADIANT:
Scarlet – 5A, Violet – 10A, Sepia – 28B, Daffodil Yellow – 15B, Mahogany – 27B, Chartreuse – 34C, True Blue 9A
SYNCHROMATIC
Orange – 5, Nile Green – 20, Cadmium Orange – 32, Light Gray – 11, Ultramarine – 18, Chrome Yellow – 3, Light Brown – 6
COLOR LIST FOR WINSOR & NEWTON WATERCOLOR TUBES
050 Vandyke Brown, 029 Light Red, 059 Yellow Ochre, 057 Winsor Violet, 056 Winsor Red, 014 Chrome Orange, 058 Winsor Yellow, 022 Hooker’s Green, Light, 003 Antwerp Blue, 025 Indigo, 008 Burnt Sienna
OTHER MATERIALS (WATER-BASED MEDIUMS) I USE:
Two water containers
Plastic white palettes
Brushes – Sable, with a pointy tip. Several sizes recommended for larger areas.
Drafting Tape
Box of facial tissue
Blow Dryer
Drafting Board (Plywood) – 16 x 20 is a good size
Stapler or staple gun
2” gummed, brown paper tape
Exacto
Liquid
Frisket Film – Graphix Brand – high tack (in sheets or a roll)
Old brush or toothpicks for liquid frisket. I did buy some excellent tools by Meeden years ago (the blue ones below). I don’t see them selling them today.
An excellent set of tweezers to help lift the areas of frisket off. I’m always looking for a good surgical one.
A burnisher is important to make sure the frisket is securely holding.

Graphite Paper – Saral Brand
Tracing paper – Canson recommended
T-Square
Matt knife and blades
Dr. PH Martin’s Pen White (for little hi-lights)
Crow Quill
Badger Air Opaque Assortment
Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder
Liquitex Matte Medium (to reduce shine from colored pencils or Badger Air Opaque)
Spray mount
Metal ruler
Colored Pencils – Prismacolor
Electric Sharpener
Kneaded eraser
Ad Marker Blender is great because it can lift colored pencil
MARKERS:
Acetate
Rubber Cement Thinner
Crow Quill
Markers, water-based – Tombow (These markers have some beautiful colors – I draw on my palette and use the color that way).
Markers, solvent-based – Ad Markers
Markers, alcohol-based – Prismacolor
Marker Paper – Beinfang “graphics” 360 – 100% rag layout pad for markers
2 sided adhesive I use: Mactec Adhesive Film from Montroy Supply
Illustration Board or Firm 2-ply surface to mount Beinfang paper on. (Often a flexible surface is required for scanning, so board is not an option)
This is my photo reference for my Fruit Strip painting. I taped two photos together.
The paintings below were stock images that were digitally selected from the much wider portfolio painting.
I have mentioned that sometimes it becomes more efficient to start over. Watercolor paper occasionally has annoying “quirks.” On more complicated paintings, I would do a test trip before starting my painting to be sure the paper wasn’t defective. On defective paper, the frisket leaks everywhere or the colors are spotting. This could be because the “sizing” that was used in making the paper was incorrect. Sometimes only a little rubbing with a Kleenex can cause a
On the example below, I struggled to put down what is there. That abandoned painting below probably represented about ten hours. However, when I started over on a paper without problems, everything worked out much fresher and quicker. I thought it would be helpful to share the process of how I work with this partial painting. I darkened the line drawing to show it (digitally). Normally, my line drawing is almost invisible.
I have actually done work for many candy companies, and may have a post on all of those jobs later on. The candy used for this painting was


